Introduction to the west of Soria province

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Panorama of Western Soria

This territory was well populated in prehistoric times and accommodated a number of important pre-Roman settlements, such as Uxama Argaela (Osma), Termancia (Tiermes) and Numantia, the Celtiberian hill fort famed for its obstinate resistance to the invading Roman armies.


Celtiberian and Roman ruins at Tiermes

After the Arab conquest it became a strategic no man's land between the Christian and Muslim domains along the 'Douro Line'

Changing hands on numerous occasions, the area was soon bristling with a thick network of watchtowers and castles; like the Caliphate fortress at Gormaz, the largest of its class in Europe, with a 1200 metre-long perimeter wall, and allegedly governed at one time by the legendary El Cid.

The area was finally conquered by the Christian armies and repopulated during the 11th and 12th centuries, coming under the crown of Castile in 1136.


El Enebral watchtower and, in the background, Gormaz castle

With the union of the crowns of Aragon, Navarre and Castile, Soria lost its strategic importance and became economically and socially impoverished after the expulsion of the Jews in 1492.

The province was pillaged by French troops in 1808 and its territories took half a century to recover.

But Soria's decadence really set fast in the twentieth century.


Osma castle and the river Abión

This is an eminently rural area, with lots of very small villages, where the local economy has for centuries been based on subsistence agriculture.

In little more than half a century farm mechanisation and the rural exodus has put an end to traditional village life.


Village of Rejas de Ucero

Soria has become a population desert. Some municipalities have even less than one inhabitant per square kilometre.

Agricultural restructuring in the 60's and 70's led to a surplus of manpower, and many Sorians had no option but to emigrate. In barely 20 years the population of this area was halved.


Panoramic view close to Valdegrulla

Emigration inevitably upsets the population pyramid, since it is the young who leave. In small villages up to 60% of the inhabitants are over 65 years of age, and almost 10% are over 85.

In many, many villages there is nobody under 30.


Winter in Berzosa

There is also a serious imbalance between men and women in the 15-44 age group, where the number of men can be up to three times the number of women.

Many farms are run by one single man, with no family support and no-one to show the ropes.


Barley field at Rejas de Ucero

Emigration to local towns, distant cities and even overseas results in the gradual abandonment of small villages.


Church at Valdegrulla

It is heartbreaking to see the marvellous folk architecture heritage of Soria's villages just crumbling away.

This province has a big socioeconomic problem, and the future of its villages and all the area in general is marked by uncertainty.


Ruined farmhouse at Navapalos

But depopulation and abandonment have an undeniable romantic charm for outsiders. There are no fences here, the countryside is open and waiting to be explored. And it's all yours.

Soria is not an endless, torrid Castilian plain. Here you will find a wide variety of landscapes and ecosystems, with unsuspected nooks and corners.


Almond trees in flower close to La Rasa

And what there is most of in Soria is trees. In fact, it's the most heavily forested Spanish province.

Large tracts of ancient woodland, especially deciduous and evergreen oak and Spanish juniper, cover much of the territory.


Oak woods, and down in the valley, Valdemaluque

In the centre of the province the Pinus pinaster (Maritime Pine) forests bear witness to a bygone industry, resin tapping, traces of which are easy to find.

Meanwhile, in the northern part of western Soria the Pinus sylvestris (Scots Pine) forests continue to be highly valued and sustain thriving timber and furniture industries. They also conceal a greatly sought-after treasure: wild mushrooms.


Pine woods close to Quintanas de Gormaz

But the most representative ecosystem is the Juniperus thurifera woodland. The Spanish Juniper is a slow-growing protected species which has its ecological niche where few other trees would wish to root: poor, rocky soils and a very dry climate with extreme hot and cold temperatures.

Our local area has the world's largest and best conserved Spanish Juniper woodlands.


Junipers from El Enebral watchtower

This is a land of trout and crayfish rivers, shallow crystal-clear waters, stony beds and shady ravines.

It is here that the great Douro (or Duero) river rises, and where its frigid waters are held back in an inland sea, the Cuerda del Pozo reservoir, complete with sandy beaches.


Meeting of the rivers Ucero and Abión

The scarcity of human intervention, both now and throughout history, has left nature largely to its own devices. Soria is particularly well endowed with nature reserves, sites of community interest and special protection areas for birds.


Gorse bush close to Burgo de Osma

With regard to historic heritage sites, besides the many Celtiberian, Roman, Arab and Castilian ruins, beautiful Romanesque churches are plentiful.

Romanesque architecture is abundant in Soria and eminently rural.


San Miguel church at San Esteban de Gormaz

The Romanesque portico, a typical feature of medieval churches in Castile, is reckoned to be a Sorian contribution to Romanesque art. Gems like this can be found in many half-derelict villages.


San Pedro church at Caracena

Other places of pilgrimage.

The wine-making tradition of the areas closest to the Douro has left thousands of private wine cellars like this, often in large groups at some distance from the nearest village, like the "City of Happiness" at Recuerda.


Entrance to wine cellar at Atauta

Vine-growing and wine-making continue to this day in western Soria, where three modern vineyards produce quality wines under the highly rated "Ribera del Duero" denomination of origin.


Vineyards of Bodegas Castillejo del Robledo

This is our patchwork panorama of western Soria.

Tourism is a key part of the rural development strategy for this economically and socially crippled territory, sustainably harnessing the potential of an area largely unknown to outsiders. It won't solve all the problems, but it could be a start.

If you're thinking of visiting Soria, take our word for it, you won't be disappointed.


Caliphal porch at Gormaz castle

More about what to see and do in Soria province:

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